Hubert Lamy En Remilly 2020 Saint Aubin

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly wafts from the glass with aromas of white flowers, crisp stone fruit, honeycomb, orange oil and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that’s racy and precise, combining the aromatic expression and textural attack characteristic of its sunny exposition with the tension and cut appropriate to this high-altitude, stony site. This is another strikingly good vintage for Olivier Lamy, whose tireless efforts over the last 25 years are now consistently delivering some of contemporary Burgundy’s greatest wines. Whether it’s cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Forget them in the cellar for a decade and reap the rewards!