D’Yquem 1991

Yquem’s 1991 is a beautifully made, medium gold-colored wine with a gorgeous nose of creme brulee, roasted coffee, and sweet, honeyed pineapple and other assorted fruits. Full-bodied, unctuously-textured, and rich, but not yet revealing a lot of complexity or enormous weight. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.

Lacks a bit of elegance for Yquem. Light gold in color, with honey, marmalade, dried apricot and vanilla aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, rather fat really, with an oily texture. Medium-sweet, with a burnt almond and molasses finish. A bit rustic.

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 1991 Chateau d’Yquem was actually not affected by the frosts like everywhere else in Bordeaux, damaging 30% of the vines, predicating a two-track ripening cycle. This was not too much of a problem to overcome since bunches are picked one by one. Picking commenced on September 19, with half the crop being picked over five days between October 21 and 25 after a spell of intermittent showers. It has a lighter color than the 1995. The nose displays moderate intensity with light waxy scents that would benefit from more vigor. The palate is well-balanced but there is a distinct sense of the wine being a little one-dimensional and it is missing some tension, especially toward the finish. Although this is a commendable Sauternes, there is a bitterness and a slight rawness that cannot be ignored. Still, it deserves a light applause considering the growing season.